Day 1 |
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| Event | Date | Waypoint | Location | Observation | Lat, Long | HM Comment | Editorial Note | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0 | February 24, 1857 | Post Office (Naples) |
##.#####, ##.##### | Feeling "snug"; Smart postilion–one continual gallop & crack of the whip from post to post. | Stagecoach horse speed = 5/6mph. Horses change every 10/12 miles or Two hours. | |||
| 0 | February 24, 1857 | 8 Mile Stop (Naples) |
##.#####, ##.##### | Change horses every 8 miles | ||||
| 100 horses at diligence | ##.#####, ##.##### | |||||||
| 0 | February 24, 1857 | Fondi (Naples) |
##.#####, ##.##### | Fine level country about Naples. Vines abundant. | "level" | |||
| Friend in Veturino | ##.#####, ##.##### | |||||||
| Various ruins | ##.#####, ##.##### | |||||||
| 0 | February 24, 1857 | Terracina (Naples) |
##.#####, ##.##### | The tower & sea at Terracina. Night. | Ausoni Mountains; Monte San Biaggi; 65 miles from Naples to Fondi. Coach would have arrived at 'nightfall,' which was at 5:52pm, having made 6 stops for new horses on the way. | |||
| 0 | February 24, 1857 | Alban Mount (Naples) |
##.#####, ##.##### | [The Alban Hills are about 25 miles Southeast from the center of Rome | ||||
| 1 | February 24, 1857 | Porta San Giovanni (Rome) |
41.885892, 12.5071393 | HM reached Rome on Via Appia Nuova (built in 1784 between Rome and Alban Hills, parallel to Via Appia and would have entered the city at Porta di San Giovanni. | ||||
| 2 | February 25, 1857 | Piazza San Silvestro (Rome) |
41.9028145, 12.4787139 | First letter from home. | Since HM left from the Naples Post Office, he might have arrived at Rome's central post office in Piazza San Silvestro. |
Day 2 |
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| Event | Date | Waypoint | Location | Observation | Lat, Long | HM Comment | Editorial Note | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 | February 25, 1857 | Piazza San Silvestro (Rome) |
41.9028145, 12.4787139 | Though his hotel was only half a mile away, HM might have taken a cab rather than negotiate the streets with his luggage. | ||||
| Post Office | 41.9028145, 12.4787139 | |||||||
| 4 | February 25, 1857 | Hotel de Minerva (Rome) |
41.897789138, 12.4776363373 | |||||
| obelisk & elephant | 41.897789138, 12.4776363373 | In square is obelisk on elephant | Monument in front of hotel, erected in 1667 and consisting of an obelisk found in nearby ruins mounted atop an elephant sculpted by Bernini in in Piazza della Minerva | |||||
| 5 | February 25, 1857 | Capitoline Hill (Rome) |
41.8929175697, 12.4825823307 | took view from tower: chafed mood: Rome fell flat on me. Oppressively flat... Tiber a ditch, yellow as saffron... St Peters looks small from Tower of Capitol | HM walked to the Capitoline Hill (Piazza del Campidoglio), climbed clock tower of Palazzo Senatorio, viewed entire city, writes (as did most tourists to Rome) of disappointment; sees St. Peter's in the distance. | |||
| Capitoline Hill | 41.8929175697, 12.4825823307 | |||||||
| Tiber River | 41.8929175697, 12.4825823307 | |||||||
| St. Peter's (in distance) | 41.8929175697, 12.4825823307 | |||||||
| 6 | February 25, 1857 | St. Peter's (Rome) |
41.9022309, 12.4562399 | Front view disappointing. But grand approach – dome not as wonderful as St: Sophia's. Exhausted at 3. PM. | Walked from Campidoglio probably to Tiber, then up the river and across to St. Peter's. | |||
| 7 | February 25, 1857 | Hotel de Minerva (Rome) |
41.897789138, 12.4776363373 | Dined at 6 & to bed |
Day 3 |
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| Event | Date | Waypoint | Location | Observation | Lat, Long | HM Comment | Editorial Note | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | February 26, 1857 | Hotel de Minerva (Rome) |
41.897789138, 12.4776363373 | Exhausted from his 24 hour journey from Naples and afternoon of touring, HM probably slept in or relaxed waiting for Torloni's bank to open, probably at 10am. | ||||||
 |
Hotel Minerva to Torloni's | |||||||||
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Alternate Hotel Minerva to Torloni's | |||||||||
| 9 | February 26, 1857 | Torloni's, banker (Rome) |
41.9058703302, 12.4822068214 | to find out about S[am] Shaw, or letters. Learnt nothing. | HM refers to the Torlonia family, whose bank, according Murray's Hand Book, was located in Via Condotti, just off Piazza di Spagna. | |||||
|
Torloni's to Coliseum | |||||||||
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Alternate Torloni's to Coliseum | |||||||||
| 10 | February 26, 1857 | Coliseum (Rome) |
41.8902180817, 12.4923563004 | Coliseum like great hollow among hills. Hopper of Greylock. Slope of concentric ruins overgrown. Mountainous. | ||||||
|
Coliseum to Capitoline | |||||||||
| 11 | February 26, 1857 | Capitoline Museum (Rome) |
41.8929175697, 12.4825823307 | |||||||
| Hall of Emperors | 41.8929175697, 12.4825823307 | |||||||||
| Tiberius | 41.8929175697, 12.4825823307 | That Tiberius? He dont look so bad at all'–It was he. A look of sickly evel, intellect without manliness & sadness without goodness. Great brain overrefinements. Solitude. | ||||||||
| Dying Gladiator. | 41.8929175697, 12.4825823307 | Shows that humanity existed amid the barberousness of the Roman time, as it now among Christian barberousness | ||||||||
| Antinous | 41.8929175697, 12.4825823307 | beautiful | ||||||||
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Capitoline to Pincian Hill | |||||||||
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Alternate Capitoline to Pincian Hill | |||||||||
| 12 | February 26, 1857 | Pincian Hill (Rome) |
41.9110962087, 12.4781674147 | (Music on Pincian) Fashion & Rank–Preposterous posturing within stone's throw of Antinous. How little influence has truth on the world!–Fashion evrywhere ridiculous, but most so in Rome. No place where lonely man will feel more lonely than in Rome. (or Jerusalem). | Since HM mentions the gardens overlooking Piazza del Popolo, he probably reached Pincian Hill by retracing his route back to and up the Spanish Steps, then further up on Vialle dellaTrinit… dei Monti to Piazza the belvedere overlooking Piazza del Popolo. | |||||
| gardens & statuary overlooking Piazza del Populo | 41.9110962087, 12.4781674147 | |||||||||
| St. Peter's | 41.9110962087, 12.4781674147 | Fine view of St. Peters from Pincian. | ||||||||
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Pincian Hill to Caffe Greco | |||||||||
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Alternate Pincian Hill to Caffe Greco | |||||||||
| 13 | February 26, 1857 | Caffé Greco (Rome) |
41.9052834401, 12.4807691574 | In the evening walked to Cafe Greco in Via Condotti. 'English sculptor' with dirty hands &c. Dense smoke. Rowdy looking chaps. &c | HM probably retraced his steps back to and down the Spanish Steps. An alternative route would have been to descend from Pincian Hill to Piazza del Popolo and walked to the Spanish Steps down Via del Babuino. | |||||
| Spanish Steps | 41.9052834401, 12.4807691574 | Stopped at evening in picture dealers: offered a Cenci for $4. Surprising cheap). Fine lounge in Piazza di Espagna among picture & curiosity dealers, & in Via Condotti, also | ||||||||
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Caffe Greco to Pincian Hill | |||||||||
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Alternate Caffe Greco to Hotel Minerva | |||||||||
| 14 | February 26, 1857 | Hotel de Minerva (Rome) |
41.897789138, 12.4776363373 | Home & to bed. | ||||||
Day 4 |
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| Event | Date | Waypoint | Location | Observation | Lat, Long | HM Comment | Editorial Note | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 15 | February 27, 1857 | Hotel de Minerva (Rome) |
41.897789138, 12.4776363373 | |||||||
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Hotel Minerva to American Consulate | |||||||||
| 16 | February 27, 1857 | American Consulate [Pzza del Popolo] (Rome) |
41.9104215395, 12.4765205383 | |||||||
| 41.9104215395, 12.4765205383 | Murray's Handbook (3rd ed. 1853) places the US Legation in Pzza del Popolo; Murray's 6th ed (1862) places it at 220 Circo di Ripetta, off of Pzza del Popolo. | |||||||||
| 41.9104215395, 12.4765205383 | tried to find A[merican]. Consul, Page, & Jarves. Failed in all. | |||||||||
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American Consulate to Baths of Caracalla | |||||||||
| 17 | February 27, 1857 | Baths of Caracalla (Rome) |
41.8811124583, 12.4929141998 | |||||||
| 41.8811124583, 12.4929141998 | Period maps indicate two entrances to the Baths of Caracalla. HM arrived by carriage at the front and dismissed his driver. | |||||||||
| 41.8811124583, 12.4929141998 | Wonderful. Massive. Ruins form as it were natural bridges of thousands of arches. There are glades, &c thickets among the ruins—high up. —Thought of Shelley. Truly he got his inspiration here. Corresponds with his drama & mind. Still magestic, & desolate grandure. | |||||||||
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Baths of Caracalla to Protestant Burial Ground | |||||||||
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Baths of Caracalla to Protestant Burial Ground | |||||||||
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Baths of Caracalla to Protestant Burial Ground | |||||||||
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Baths of Caracalla to Protestant Burial Ground | |||||||||
| 18 | February 27, 1857 | Protestant Burial Ground (Rome) |
41.8767349074, 12.480275631 | |||||||
| 41.8767349074, 12.480275631 | Traveled “by natural process” | HM had dismissed his guide and probably continued on foot to the Protestant Cemetery, either along the wall or the way he had come, or more directly through fields surrounding the Church of San Saba | ||||||||
| Keats's and Shelley's graves | 41.8767349074, 12.480275631 | Pyramid of Cestius | Keats' epitaph. Separated from the adjacent ground by trench. —Shelley in other ground. Plain stone.— (Went from Caracalla to Shelley's grave by natural process) | |||||||
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Protestant Burial Ground to Suspension Bridge | |||||||||
| 19 | February 27, 1857 | Suspension Bridge, (Rome) |
41.8894513424, 12.480275631 | |||||||
| 41.8894513424, 12.480275631 | By 1857, a suspension bridge had been built to reconnect the ancient Ponte Roto, or broken bridge, to the Tiber's left bank. Only three arches of the bridge ruin, on the Trastevere side, had remained. The suspension bridge was subsequently demolished. Today a modern bridge makes the span, skirting one remaining arch of the Ponte Roto in mid river. | |||||||||
|
Suspension Bridge to Isola Tiberina | |||||||||
| 20 | February 27, 1857 | Isola Tiberina (Rome) |
41.8905295669, 12.4777114391 | |||||||
| Isle of Tiber | 41.8905295669, 12.4777114391 | Located in the Tiber between Trastever on the right bank and the Ghetto on the left, it continues to be the site of a hospital. | ||||||||
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Isola Tiberina to Teatro Marcello, Palazzo Orsini | |||||||||
| 21 | February 27, 1857 | Teatro Marcello, Palazzo Orsini (Rome) |
41.892438379, 12.4787092209 | |||||||
| Theater of Marcellus, Orsini Palace | 41.892438379, 12.4787092209 | HM would have circumnavigated the ruins of Teatro Marcellus, a huge amphitheatre that for centuries had been used for commerce and shops. Visible from the opposite side, the Palazzo Orsini was built during the Renaissance atop the theater's upper tier, and remains inhabited. The theater ruins and palazzo are on the eastern border of the Jewish Ghetto. HM's walk around the site would have placed him in the center of the Ghetto. | ||||||||
| Theater of Marcellus, Orsini Palace | 41.892438379, 12.4787092209 | (blacksmiths shops &c in arches—black with centuries grime & soot—built upon above & inhabited) & Orsini Palace & Ghetto. | ||||||||
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Teatro Marcello, Palazzo Orsini to Palazzo di Cenci | |||||||||
| 22 | February 27, 1857 | Palazzo di Cenci (Rome) |
41.8928696508, 12.4768531322 | |||||||
| Ghetto, Cenci Palace | 41.8928696508, 12.4768531322 | The Palazzo di Cenci is on the Ghetto's western border and is the site of Beatrice Cenci's murder of her incestuous father. Guido's portrait of Cenci was iconic, and Shelley's tragic play was well known. | ||||||||
| Ghetto, Cenci Palace | 41.8928696508, 12.4768531322 | Tragic looking place enough. The big sloping arch.—part of it inhabited, part desolate. | Chances are HM's "tragic looking place" refers to the Cenci Palace; however, it might also describe the Ghetto. | |||||||
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Palazzo di Cenci to Palazzo di Farnese | |||||||||
| 23 | February 27, 1857 | Palazzo di Farnese (Rome) |
41.8948822141, 12.4711024761 | |||||||
| Farnese Palace | 41.8948822141, 12.4711024761 | finest architecture of all the palaces (private). | ||||||||
| Statues of Hercules and Bull | 41.8948822141, 12.4711024761 | Farnese Hercules & Farnese Toro formerly here. Now in Museum Borbonico, Naples. | The s two statues had been looted from the Baths of Caracalla, along with two massive marble bathing tubs. The statues were subsequently removed to Naples's national museum, but the tubs remained as the basins for fountains in Piazza Farnese. | |||||||
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Palazzo di Farnese to Ponte Sant'Angelo | |||||||||
| 24 | February 27, 1857 | Ponte Sant'Angelo (Rome) |
41.9020933785, 12.4665105343 | |||||||
| Sant'Angelo Bridge | 41.9020933785, 12.4665105343 | Beatrice Cenci was executed on the bridge, an unstated fact in HM's journal but one that adds a further association to more explicit references to Shelley and his tragic plays at Caracalla, the Cemetery, and Palazzo di Cenci. | ||||||||
| 41.9020933785, 12.4665105343 | Remarked the banks of Tiber near St: Angelo—fresh, alluvial look near masonry—primeval as Ohio in the midst of all these monuments of the centureis. | HM traveled up the Ohio River by steamboat on his return home from his trip to visit his uncle in Galena, Illinois, in the summer of 1840. | ||||||||
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Ponte Sant'Angelo to Piazza San Pietro | |||||||||
| 25 | February 27, 1857 | Piazza San Pietro (Rome) |
41.9020534518, 12.4560713768 | |||||||
| St. Peter's | 41.9020534518, 12.4560713768 | |||||||||
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Piazza San Pietro to Hotel Minerva | |||||||||
| 26 | February 27, 1857 | Hotel de Minerva (Rome) |
41.897789138, 12.4776363373 | |||||||
| 41.897789138, 12.4776363373 | dinner & bed | |||||||||